Kara's Sights and Bites: North Carolina trip highlighted by fresh Appalachian cuisine with a Southern flair

By Kara Kimbrough

Smoked trout dip, an appetizer at The Switchback at Cataloochee Ranch, offers a new take on traditional dips due to Sous Chef Chris Bankes’ innovative use of fresh ingredients and locally-sourced smoked trout. Drop me an email and I’ll send you the recipe. Photo courtesy of Cataloochee Ranch. 

A week in western North Carolina offered breathtaking views of the Great Smoky and Blue Ridge Mountains as well as a chance to explore charming towns like Maggie Valley, Waynesville, Lake Junaluska, Clyde and Canton, all within scenic Haywood County. Seeing the mesmerizing stacked blue layers of the Blue Ridge was an unworldly experience.

There’s so much more to share (and love) about this unbelievably beautiful area that I’ll describe next week, but first…the food.

Ranging from traditional Appalachian fare with a Southern influence, locally-sourced rainbow trout, beef, seasonal vegetables and so much more are served in eateries ranging from cozy hometown diners to sprawling dining rooms in luxurious mountain resorts. Haywood County’s cuisine truly offers something for every preference and budget.

With its location in the midst of The Smokies and Blue Ridge Parkway, I expected restaurant prices to reflect those found in similar tourist destinations. I was surprised to learn that most restaurants offer reasonably-priced meals. Families and groups often choose the area for its affordability as well as the diverse selection of dining options.

It’s hard to reduce a week’s worth of delicious meals to a short list, but for brevity’s sake, I’ll share a list of my favorites, including a few close seconds.

Best pancakes: Joey’s Pancake House, Maggie Valley, NC

Believe it or not, this was my first visit to a true “pancake house.” A massive stack of fluffy blueberry pancakes topped with fresh blueberries and doused with Vermont maple syrup was the perfect fuel for a full day of hiking and exploring.

Best bagel: Beach Mountain Diner, Waynesville, NC

I’ve often shared my love of bagels. The homemade ones at this quaint downtown diner didn’t disappoint. Additions of ham, fried eggs and cheese transformed it into a hearty breakfast sandwich.

·       Honorable mention: Main Street Diner, Waynesville

A light pre-flight breakfast was my preference on the last day. This downtown eatery’s version - coated with cream cheese and served with crispy bacon - checked all the boxes.

Best wrap: The Swag, Waynesville

I’ll share more about this breathtaking mountain resort next week, but can’t omit the post-hike gourmet picnic lunch from my favorites list. Chef Jake Schmidt’s delicious lunch of seasonal fruits and baked goods was highlighted by a massive chicken tortilla wrap. Filled with chunks of roasted chicken, chopped vegetables and a delicate sauce, it was hands-down the best wrap I’d ever tasted.

Best Southern classics dinner: Southern Porch, Canton, NC

Southern Porch is a delightful eatery occupying an historic building dating back to the 1800’s. A perfectly-charred steak, unbelievably creamy mashed potatoes and gravy and the best fried cabbage and onions of my life combined to create a delicious dinner. However, collard bacon dip, an unusual but delectable appetizer filled with braised collards, bacon and cheese served with homemade tortilla chips, is now on my “must recreate” list.

Best pie: Rocky Face Tavern, Canton

Located at Springdale Resort, the upscale restaurant serves a variety of creative dishes, including my lunch selection of a hearty BLT topped with spicy pimento cheese. But dessert really took the cake: an infusion of white chocolate elevated classic coconut cream pie to another level.

Best fries: The Scotsman Public House, Waynesville

The Scotsmen serves traditional Scottish fare alongside Irish dishes like shepherd’s pie and Reuben sandwiches. Everything was amazing, but an appetizer of Scotsman pub poutine – seasoned fries smothered in savory house poutine gravy and crumbled sausage – stole the show.

Best artistically created and presented chicken dish: Singletree Heritage Kitchen, Waynesville

Stuffed chicken breast is not a new dish, but nothing compares to the incredible version served at this innovative restaurant known for exceptional Appalachian and Southern dishes. My dinner selection of sun-dried tomato and feta stuffed bone-in chicken breast was filled with parmesan polenta, roast Roma tomatoes and lemon Beurre Blanc. The result? A dish that was as beautifully presented as it was delicious.

Best “girls’ day out” lunch: Crown & Thistle Tea Room, Waynesville

Pairing my own pot of fragrant spiced tea with a three-tiered stand filled with delicious finger sandwiches, homemade scones and preserves and the piece de resistance, a layer of delectable desserts served on delicate fine china was the perfect way to relax and decompress after a busy morning.

Best coffee spots: The Orchard and Blue Ghost Outpost, Waynesville

Both The Orchard and Blue Ghost Outpost are great places to stop in, relax and enjoy one of a variety of coffee drinks and baked goods.

Most memorable meal: The Switchback at Cataloochee Ranch, Maggie Valley, NC

The Switchback at Cataloochee Ranch in Maggie Valley, NC, serves a pork chop that is hearty and delicious enough to be served alone. However, it pairs nicely with seasonal vegetables.

Having the opportunity to experience The Switchback, Cataloochee Ranch’s signature restaurant set the bar extremely high for the remainder of my trip. The sprawling grounds and restaurant are both breathtaking, but the real magic occurs in Chef Jeb Aldrich’s kitchen. Here, he combines fresh Appalachian flavors with a European flair to create dishes that are simply divine.

* An unbelievably fresh and flavorful appetizer of smoked trout dip with homemade crackers let me know I was in for an incredible dining experience. I wasn’t fully prepared for the best (and perhaps largest) pork chop I had ever been served. Perfectly seasoned, fork-tender and topped with a delicious sauce, it paired beautifully with fingerling potatoes with bacon and herbs and seasonal vegetables. The standout among an array of creative desserts was a simple plum galette made with a handmade butter crust, local plums, almond frangipane, buttermilk and sweet thyme ice cream.

I’m still dreaming about these amazing meals, with plans to recreate some of the dishes or better yet, return to sample them again. In the meantime, Cataloochee Ranch Sous Chef Chris Bankes graciously shared the recipe for the amazing smoked trout dip. In the interest of brevity, I’ll share it with you via email; simply message me and I’ll send it your way.

For a quick side dish for a cozy fall dinner, try this traditional Appalachian dish of wilted (killed or “kilt”) cabbage. It has withstood the test of time and is still a local favorite.

Appalachian "Kilt" Lettuce with Bacon Dressing

1 head of fresh lettuce (iceberg or leaf lettuce), torn into bite-sized pieces

6 slices of bacon, chopped

1 small onion, finely chopped

⅓ cup apple cider vinegar

2 tablespoons water

1 tablespoon sugar

Salt and black pepper to taste

     Place torn lettuce into a large serving bowl. In a skillet, cook the chopped bacon over medium heat until it is browned and crispy. Use a slotted spoon to remove the bacon pieces and set them aside on a paper towel, leaving the bacon grease in the skillet.

Add the chopped onion to the skillet with the bacon grease. Sauté until the onion is soft and translucent.

Stir in the apple cider vinegar, water, and sugar. Continue to cook for about 1 minute, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom of the skillet.

Pour the hot dressing immediately over the lettuce in the serving bowl. Sprinkle the reserved crispy bacon pieces over the lettuce.  Toss gently to combine and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately while the lettuce is still warm and slightly wilted.

Kara Kimbrough is a food and travel writer from Mississippi. Email her at kkprco@yahoo.com.